No time for intros, let’s get right to it. Review of the Canon R7, which covers the pros and cons, offers advice, and has comparisons at the end.Pros (so many!)1. Autofocus– One of the best advantages of mirrorless cameras is the AF. Canon’s early RF offerings were lacking a robust AF system (R/ RP), but the R5/R6 saw massive advancements, and I feel the R7 is even better. Canon claims it’s the same AF as the R3, a camera that cost 4X more! It’s fast, accurate, has subject tracking (people/animal/vehicle) as well as eye AF. Eye AF seems to be more accurate and “stickier” than the R5. AF is at least half the reason I wanted to move to mirrorless once they started to get it right. The R7 really gets it right.2. Dual card slots –I’ve wanted Canon to put two slots on mid-range models for a while now, given how common it has become with Sony and Fuji. The R7 has dual UHS-II card slots, which can be expensive if you want the fastest versions (128gb V90 cost 90 USD). With two cards you can save redundantly, which makes it so you can use the camera with more confidence for any kind of paid work, or just keep a real time back up. It’s handy.3. 32mp – The high density of the sensor makes the detail and sharpness it can generate in the next level. Granted, the 90D/M6mkII also have 32mp sensors, but two things on that. First, Canon claims this sensor is a retooled version, that it has some performance advantages over the previous sensor. Second, those cameras do not have the level of AF the R7 does, and as a result can be punishing for shots that don’t quite nail focus. I will talk more about this in the comparisons. In short, the R7 AF pairs much better with the sensor than the M6mkII/90D, though resolving power is likely still an issue. I’m confident all RF lenses will be fine, but older EF/EF-S lenses might not be able to resolve the density of the sensor. NOTE – This is an APS-C sensor with a crop factor of 1.6. This means you multiply focal length by 1.6 to get the effective focal length (it’s actually a bit more complicated, but I want to keep it simple). So, 100mm becomes the equivalent of 160mm, 15mm becomes 24mm, 10mm becomes 16mm, etc. This applies to any lens you put on the camera, even ones made specifically for APS-C, and also applies to any formula used for factoring things like minimum shutter speed, star trails, and so on. Just FYI, as I know this tends to be confusing to new users. Crop factor makes cameras like the R7 popular for sports/wildlife as it gives extra “reach” without the penalty for using teleconvertors, and gives more “pixels on subject” vs a full frame when cropping would be likely. The high density also allows for additional cropping, and when combined with the crop factor makes this ideal for wildlife. For more info, Google is your friend.4. Fast burst – 15fps mechanical, 30fps electronic. The more FPS a camera has, the more likely you are to capture that “right moment”. There isn’t a lot to say here other than both are fast, better than almost all other Canon cameras. I do have more to say in the cons, but these are some impressive frame rates.5. Price – At 1500 USD this camera is a steal. For all it can do, this seems like a fair price for one of the best APS-C cameras on the market.6. No video record limit– Almost all Canon cameras outside the C line have a 30 minute record limit. This camera does not. It is only limited by your storage, which will vary based on the size and speed of the card used. From what I hear it also doesn’t overheat like the R5/R6 even in 4K fine, but I have yet to push it far enough to say. This is a big deal for video shooters.7. Video options–The video options are one of the biggest selling points of the R7, once you also consider the price vs cameras that cost 1000+USD more. I think this camera, or a couple of them, could make for a great, “affordable” production set-up, depending on what you do. To hit the finer points –Full sensor read in 4K, all modes (except cropped mode). Fine 4K at 30 and 24 (oversampled 7K). Standard 4K (line skipped) at 60, 30, and 24. Cropped 4K at 60. FHD at 60, 30, and 24. All with full audio, AF, and internal recording. 120 is an option in FHD but without audio (AF works). When you consider the IBIS and no record time limit, this camera is made for video as much as stills.8. RF mount – One of the most common questions I answer is “will my lenses work on this camera?” This camera can use all RF/RF-S lenses. If you also have one of the EF to RF adapters, then you can use all EF/EF-S lenses too (I suggest the control ring adapter for R7, as it lacks a third adjustment dial). Side note- all my EF/EF-S lenses adapt without issue, even 3rd party lenses. I have several Tamron and Sigma lenses and they all work fine, but I can’t speak for all third party lenses. Some might need firmware updates, and some features may not work.9. In Body Image Stabilization (IBIS) - Lenses that lack IS will be stabilized, for both stills and video (so handy). If using RF lenses that feature IS, most (if not all) can combine with IBIS to make for even greater stabilization! Canon boasts as much as 7-8 stops, depending on lens. For scale, if using a 15mm lens, 24mm equivalent after crop factor, you’d need 1/25sec to avoid shake under normal conditions. An RF lens with IS, theoretically, could be as slow as 8sec. That seems pretty far-fetched, and I didn’t get that in my test. I did get 4sec though, which at 24mm equivalent is 7 stops (2 out of 3 shots came out good). That is completely insane handheld, and would be impossible without a tripod previously, but thanks to Canon’s industry leading IS/IBIS combo, I did it. NOTE – IS/IBIS does not stop motion of the subject. It simply offsets the shake of the camera when using slower than normal shutter speeds. If shooting stationary subjects, or if subject motion is your intention, then it is a huge advantage over non-stabilized setups. If you need to counter subject motion, use a fast shutter speed. This is something I find people often get confused when they are learning. ALSO NOTE – Canon says the combo works with EF/EF-S lenses, but I don’t know the extent. I suspect not as well as RF. Probably 1 stop of added stabilization, maybe more, maybe none. 3rd party lenses likely do not gain the combo IS/IBIS, at least not at this time, and Canon will never offer support to add it. Reverse engineering will need to be applied for 3rd party lens makers to figure it out and then add it through firmware, and that could be a long time if ever.10. Other stuff –Uses all LP-E6 series batteries, but versions older than the LP-E6NH likely reduce overall performance and battery life. Light weather sealing, same as 90D (can survive light rain, but I wouldn’t risk a downpour). AF/MF switch (for lenses that don’t have a dedicated toggle). Fully silent shooting with electronic shutter. USB charging. Joystick. Multi-articulating touchscreen. Multi-function hotshoe (for the DM-E1D microphone). DIGIC X processor. Impressive battery life for a mirrorless (best I have used). Clean 4K output up to 60p. HDR PQ and C-LOG3. Vertical video embeds in the file. Adapts EF/EF-S lenses with no noticeable loss of performance. I mean, there are a lot of things about it in the good category; I can’t cover them all in this space!Cons. Most of this is “FYI”, not worth a star off. If I remove a star I will explain why. Otherwise, it is up to the user to know what they are getting and how to use it.1. Body layout/size – I kind of hate the layout/size of the R7. The 2nd scroll wheel is around the joystick instead of the D-pad. As a result I frequently bump it and accidently change my settings. There’s a lock button on top to help with that, but this is also not in the usual place (usually it’s a lever on the bottom). No third scroll wheel, it’s replaced by the on/stills/video switch. The AE-Lock (*) is further than usual from the AF-ON button (commonly remapped for dual BBF setups). All these things are contrary to the muscle memory I have developed with Canon for years, and results in me fumbling at critical moments. The grip is also not large enough. I have fairly large hands, and as such my pinky just can’t get a good hold on it, which is the most critical part of your grip. Combined with the light weight, it can be hard to balance large lenses, especially in vertical orientation. Given that it seems pretty obvious this is a sport/wildlife camera, this can be a problem. Most of these are just gripes, not really worth a star off, and a battery grip would offset some of these gripes, BUT…2. No battery grip! –Not only is no battery grip available, there never will be, or at least not a true grip from Canon. The R7 lacks all the requirements to add a grip; the battery door does not have a release, there are no alignment holes, and there are no electronic plates inside the battery compartment. I can’t even imagine why Canon omitted this, given that it is an obvious mirrorless replacement for the mid-range DSLR series (90D), all of which had battery grips! Not to mention the issues with the small body and large lenses. A camera that has a base price of 1500 USD and is clearly intended for use as a sport/wildlife camera should have a grip as an option. I am removing one star for this reason. While I am confident that at some point a 3rd party will make one, it will not be a true grip with dedicated controls for vertical use, will not have any weather sealing, will require the battery door to be permanently removed, and will never seat completely secure without the alignment holes. This is unacceptable to any serious user that wants a grip for all the reasons people want them (not just an extra battery). While I don’t normally add a grip to mid-range cameras, I wanted to on the R7 due to the ergonomics. Now I never can, nor can anyone else. Bad call from Canon on that. I’ll get over it, but if in the future they release an R7 mkII and/or some additional higher level model, they’d better offer a grip as an option.3. No ALL-I compression – I am not a big video guy, not yet at least, but what I hear from those that are, that they would prefer ALL-I over IPB. If that matters to you, then there is that. The R7 only has IPB. ALL-I is only available for time lapse.4. Buffer could be better – You’d think a camera with 15/30fps burst would have a large enough buffer to deal with it, right? Well, it’s not terrible, but it could be better. Using a UHS-II V90 card, the buffer fills after 43 shots in RAW, and 90 in C-RAW. And while that is better than all my DSLRs, the FPS rate makes the overall burst time short for RAW; about 3 seconds at 15fps and 1.5 seconds at 30fps. Not a deal breaker, you just have to manage your buffer. NOTE – This testing was done by simply setting the camera to burst mode and shooting until it stopped, not even applying AF. I used these settings; 1/1000 sec, F2.8, ISO 100. However, different settings and circumstances can alter your results. Keep in mind things like shutter speed, ISO, AF mode/settings, and even EV will have an effect on this; you might get different results in given situations. In bright light, with low ISO, I have shot as many as 127 C-RAW photos in one burst, using servo AF set to focus priority. If I increase to ISO 3200 this cuts down to 90 shots. File size is affected by ISO (larger as it goes up), and servo focus tracking can slow down shooting as it seeks for focus (especially if the EV starts to drop below 0), and both have a direct effect on the length of your total burst. It’s all a tradeoff; just manage your burst and you’ll be fine.5. Rolling Electronic Shutter –Those 30fps burst have a serious drawback. The rolling shutter is pretty significant, making this mode unusable in given situations. For anything that has quick movement you will see a warping either of the subject or the background. In panning shots, the background will appear to “lean” counter to the pan direction. Objects moving fast will warp, IE, a ball being kicked will appear egg-shaped rather than round. I don’t think it’s worth a star off, since rolling shutter is an issue for basically all cameras with an electronic shutter mode; some just mitigate it better. Until true global shutters exist it likely will continue to be this way. Just use mechanical in these situations; 15fps is more than enough. 7-10fps was considered good for action previously, and when I had cameras in that range I still got plenty of “the right moment” keepers.6. Not the 7D replacement– The build, sealing, and lack of a battery grip, all make the R7 fall short of this mark. Many of us were expecting a mirrorless 7D (hence the name R7), and feature wise it does outclass that series. But the 7D is more than just a feature rich camera. It’s legendary for its build quality; testimonies to its seeming indestructibility are plentiful. At 1500 USD though, the R7 holds up. To be what many of us hoped for it would cost at least 2000 USD. I don’t think Canon is interested in that market just yet. From their end, this was the better move at this time. We might still see a higher level APS-C that has that tougher build and a grip option, but not for a while. I’d guess at least 2 years, if ever.7. Other stuff – AA filter (I would like to have seen Canon drop that). Shutter is loud (not as loud as a mirrorbox, but noticeably louder than my R5/R6). EVF isn’t as smooth as it could be (not as smooth as my R5, about the same as my R6). Hotshoe microphone is very expensive (300 USD). Not a lot of RF-S lenses, yet. No top screen. No lock on Mode dial. Really, there are not a lot of cons, and most are just gripes. The lack of a grip is the only one I deem serious enough to remove a star, and not everyone cares about that.ConclusionsWhat a camera! The pros are many and the cons few. At the price of 1500 USD, the R7 adds 4K video without recording limits, is a solid choice for sport/wildlife shooters wanting that “extra reach” of a crop camera, while also being great for pretty much everything else. I can’t find a lot of reasons to say no to the R7. If Canon hadn’t omitted the grip, it would be 5 stars. As is, I rate the R7 4 stars, which is still a very solid offering for what it cost.ComparisonsVs 90D – To me, the R7 is to RF what the 90D is to EF, not just because the 32mp sensor. The price and feature set, when compared to higher class cameras, scale pretty well the same. Side by side, there is no reason to mince words; the R7 just all around beats the 90D in everything, save for a few things. 90D is cheaper at 1200 USD. 90D has better ergonomics; the grip is beefy enough to hold steady even in large hands. 90D battery life is better and can add a battery grip to make it even better in this regard, which also offsets balance issues with large lenses in relation to ergonomics. The view finder is worth a mention, as some still prefer an OVF for action (EVF can lag). Otherwise, R7 AF destroys the 90D AF. The AF system of the 90D has always been its biggest complaint from users; Canon really should have used the AF from the 7DmkII. It isn’t useless, but with 10fps burst the 90D AF can struggle to keep up, and at 32mp even slight missed focus is noticeable. I had plenty of keepers on the 90D, but admittedly it was hit or miss. When it hit, it was like no other camera I ever owned. When it missed, it was frustrating. The R7 AF by itself is a reason to trade up if you are struggling with the 90D. Dual cards, IBIS, and better video features are icing on the cake. If you have a 90D and are doing well with it, keep it. It’s still a capable camera. If you are struggling with AF, R7 is a better choice. If you want unlimited recording and/or 4K60, the R7 has that and the 90D does not. If you don’t have either, then I would say the R7is a smarter move at this point.Vs 7DmkII- The R7 outclasses the 7D in features all the way around. The 7D compares similar to the 90D vs R7, but has a stronger build and dual slots. If you need an APS-C that can be used in some pretty bad conditions, the 7DmkII is still the king of taking a beating. Otherwise, AF, burst speed, video, 32mp, dynamic range, high ISO performance, and overall features beat the 7DmkII.Vs M6mkII –The M6mkII is a nice camera, R7 just outclasses it: Better AF, better /faster/built-in EVF, better burst/buffer, better video specs, better battery life, dual cards, IBIS, etc. The M6mkII has a smaller form factor and a flip up screen (some prefer that), that’s about it. It is less expensive, but if it’s about cost I think the R10 is a better choice: better all-around specs, built in EVF (M6 EVF is optional), uses RF/RF-S lenses, for a comparable price. M series was good, still is, but I think the death knell is playing for it. RF is the future, M is on its way out. I just can’t suggest an M camera at this point unless you really want that smaller build.Vs R10- I feel this is an important comparison, as both cameras are RF APS-C cameras released 1 month apart. In short, R7 wins the overall comparison, but for its price the R10 is pretty impressive. For 980 USD, you still get 15fps burst, 4K30/24 full read, 4K60 cropped, FHD 120, same AF, no record limit, same lens compatibility. You lose IBIS, bigger battery, C-LOG, dual cards, 40K60 full read, headphone jack, better build, sealing, better EVF, better buffer, really there’s a lot but these are the things I think are most notable, and are all things that can be deal breakers to those that know why they want/need them. I think the R10 is currently the best “entry” level camera for people that want to move up from their smart phone to something that can change lenses and offers more overall control, while retaining some of the best features of the R7 without having to pay 1500 USD. It’s a camera that can do a lot for what it cost, and might suit you fine. To be fair, 24mp will be much more forgiving than 32mp for people still learning the game (resolving power). I’d like to do a full review, to lay out a better explanation of what it can do.Vs R/RP- Price is why I want to compare these. Both are full frame RF cameras that have a price that is similar enough to the R7 where I think people will ask “why a crop over a full frame at that price?” In short terms, the R7 is a performance camera where the R/RP are not. Their only functional advantage is their sensor size, which is worth a mention. If doing portrait work, a full frame is a better place to start, as the larger sensor offers a cleaner image and more background blur. R7 can do portraits too, just saying a full frame typically is better due to the way crop factor affects framing and distance to subject (be sure to consider crop when choosing lenses). If doing paid work, R7 might be better as it has dual cards (R/RP do not). R7 otherwise does more, especially for action (R/RP AF is weak for action).Vs R5/R6 – You would choose the R7 over the R5/R6 for these reasons: You want a performance camera with a crop sensor to get more reach out of your lenses for sports/wildlife. You want a video camera with 4K60, unlimited recording, and doesn’t overheat. R7 has some advantages, given its price, but let’s not mince words; the R5/R6 are top end, full frame cameras. I take my R5/R6 to every paid event. The R7 is my wildlife camera.Keep in mind this is not a review for these other cameras. There’s any number of things I would say about them in a full review. I am adding the info for people that might be asking “why the R7?”That’s all I got! All that is left is to check out the images. Thank you for reading my review! If you found it helpful please remember to hit the helpful button. Take care!