Reviewed in the United States on December 6, 2020
This is the first espresso machine I've ever owned. I purchased it this Spring (2020) because, like many of you, I needed to stop going out. I didn't know much about home brewing espresso, but I have lots of Breville products, and I thought this would be a good entry-level machine., I liked that it had all of the features I needed in a one-stop solution, but would still allow me to make "real" espresso, not the stuff that shoots of a pod, which I typically dislike. Armed with nothing more than the instructions it came with, power, water, and beans, I was able to brew espresso good enough to keep me from going into withdrawal, but typically not delicious, and appreciably less enjoyable than my favorite baristas in my favorite cafes. I also wasted a lot of beans in the process. After about 10 days of this bumbling around, I decided to start researching how to get better performance, learning a lot of coffee science along the way, and over the next few months, my technique and results improved, but ultimately plateaued at a point where I felt my home-brewed espresso was now generally better than my favorite baristas - but still not consistent - one day I could make a perfect shot, with all of the lovely sweetness and velvety texture of great espresso, with little or no extraction defect, but then the next day, doing the exact same thing, would get something uneven and over- or under- extracted, and not as good. I was not exactly sure what the variable was, but I suspected it was the grind consistency, since by now I had become very practiced at everything else.
The obvious issues with the grinder are that there is a limited range of adjustment, and as you get to a good fineness for your beans, there will be popcorning - the phenomenon of the beans bouncing off the burrs before passing through; those popcorned beans will be ground more coarsely than the beans that were packed into the grinder by the weight of the beans sitting on top of them. Also, while the machine has a hopper that encourages you store beans in it, that's a terrible idea; it's better to store the beans in an airtight cannister or, if they came from a nice roaster, in their resealable, airtight bags with one-way gas valves. I find that beans that are well-packed like that do not have to be brewed within two weeks of roast, as some coffee trainers say, but rather, can last up to 5 weeks from their roast date, and still be very good, with the peak time for brewing being 7-15 days after roast. Back to popcorning: because the beans will grind differently based upon whether they're at the bottom or top of the pile, this would theoretically render every dose you grind prone to unevenness. This is not a defect of the Barista Express. This is just something in the nature of conical burr grinders. Some craft builders have figured out how to build-in flow control (including the grinder that I now use, which I'll come to that). But you can also be your own flow-control. And that's how I hacked this to get slightly better consistency. I adjusted the grinder to be so fine that it would give me an espresso grind, even feeding only one or two beans at a time, and then did that. In so doing, my grind was more consistent from top to bottom, and my extraction improved significantly. But it was still not totally consistent. And, it makes grinding very labor intensive to feed beans one or two at a time - it makes it take 3-4x as long, and you can't do anything else.
The other thing too - and I learned this early in the adventure - is that you can't rely on the built-in dosing settings for the grinder. Just forget about these. Even if you don't want to go crazy and hand-feed the machine like I do, you need to get a scale. Measure your beans one shot at a time. The dosing volume controls on the machine are not volumetric; they just control how long the grinder runs. Good espresso requires adherence to a brew recipe with a known mass of beans and that can only be done by weighing them. You could take your portafilter and weigh it after the machine dispensed your grind, but this will invariably lead to waste.
Now, 8 months into my new hobby, I treated myself to a new grinder - one you've definitely seen if you watch coffee videos on the internet all day. Now that I use this grinder instead of the built-in grinder, I am not having any problems. In my last 30 shots, 29 have been perfectly-extracted (meaning no channeling, no dead spots, just nice even extraction at the correct pressure levels, resulting in a shot that gets all of the sweetness out of the bean, and little to no bitter or sour flavor) and the 1 that wasn't was because I used the wrong grinder setting. Mea culpa. Oops. That's the kind of consistency I'm looking for. What does this tell me? The coffee brewing function of this machine is top-notch. The group head, shower screen, thermoblock, all of it performs at a professional level, and with the right grind, you can make supremely good espresso on this machine, and do anything you want with it. Drink it straight; make a milk-drink; make an Americano, hot, iced, or whatever you want. Also, the controls are very intuitive, and the build quality is high, as you would expect from Breville. As for maintenance: espresso machines are high maintenance. They require regular cleaning and decaling. But Breville has made it a snap. It takes maybe 10 minutes to descale, every other month, with normal daily usage. A monthly cleaning cycle is so simple it practically runs itself. I also take off the shower screen and make sure it hasn't accumulated too much grit, every few days. That's not necessary - it can go weeks without cleaning and still work, but I am a bit of a perfectionist, as you may have gathered.
I've talked about brewing and grinding, but not steaming. As for steaming: it works fine. I know that there are commercial or prosumer models with slightly more sophisticated steam wands. Because this has a single thermoblock, it is not able to brew and steam at once, in fact, the steam cycle takes quite a while to wind itself up. So you have a Hobbson's choice: steam first, and wait for the temperature to come back down to where it is appropriate for brewing; or brew first, then steam, while your shot goes cold. I don't make a lot of milk drinks, and if you are, it's less important if the shot cools a little. But it just makes the process slower. But once it's running, the steam wand textures milk very nicely. This isn't the most important feature for me, because I drink mostly espresso or Americano, rather than milk drinks. But if you drink mostly milk drinks, then keep this in mind that there are machines with better wands, and better ability to transition from brewing to steaming, out there.
The steam knob on this machine also activates a hot water dispenser, which is very helpful. It automatically cuts off after delivering the right amount of water to make an Americano; two cycles will give me enough to brew a quick cup of tea when I don't want to wait to boil a kettle on the range. That is a plus. However, the steam control, although it rotates, is not a volumetric control, it's just an on-off; you can't dial in more or less steam by opening and closing it more.
So would I recommend this machine? I would say I recommend the Breville family, more than I recommend this particular machine. Because the espresso-brewing is 5-star, but the grinder is only 2 or 3 star, and I am so happy no longer need to use it. If I knew then, what I know now, I would not have gotten an all-in-one machine. I could have gotten a better grinder, and a smaller, lower-cost Breville, like The Infuser, or a larger machine that focuses only on the brew and steam functions, like the amazing Dual Boiler, which might be my next machine. Before I knew better, I liked the space-saving and cost-effectiveness of an all-in-one. But the all-in-one is not going to let you chase perfection in your espresso. So depending on what your wants, needs, budget, and counter space requirements are, you might want to look at other machines in the Breville line, that have the same great controls, fit and finish, customer support, that you would expect from Breville, but that aren't trying to be the jack-of-all-trades.
If you do get this machine, it has almost everything to get up and running (except the water and beans) but I do recommend some accessories:
1. A 54mm bottomless portafilter so you can see your extraction in real time -- this is KEY to learning about extraction defects
2. A drip scale -- or any slim-profile kitchen scale that measure to 0.10s of a gram, so you can accurately weigh your dosage of beans before grinding, and also test your flow rate and mass of your finished product, to ensure that you are getting a good ratio of input to output.
These are a MUST. Without seeing the extraction, and without being able to measure your dosage, you will not be able to make anything resembling tasty espresso from this machine.
Some other things are optional but helpful:
- A rubber tamp mat to protect your counter and limit the mess;
- A 54mm distributor tool to quickly and easily get a nice well-prepared puck. You can do this by hand, but the tool makes it easier, faster, and less messy. The Breville distributor tool that it comes with is useless.
- A 54mm calibrated tamper, so you know that your tamp application is consistent every time. The built-in tamper is adequate, there's nothing wrong with it, it's not useless, but it doesn't give you any guidance for that all-important consistency.
- Lots of replacement filters, cleaning tablets, and descaler.
This machine is not deficient because it doesn't have all of these things (it actually does come with maintenace tools, and starter packs of cleaning tablets and descaler which is really great). It's a very complete package. Great instruction booklet, and all of the nice packaging you would expect from a great company like Breville.
In conclusion: There are many people for whom this probably is the right machine. For me, it's not quite perfect because the grinding function is not as good as the brewing function, and it was bringing down the quality of my results. In hindsight, I should have gotten the Infuser or the Dual Boiler, and a separate grinder. I only started to achieve really consistently great results when I was able to stop using the built-in grinder. But that does prove how good this machine is at brewing. I don't think it's possible to improve much on that.
