Its an amazing light meter.
Its small, compact, accurate.
It has incident/reflective light metering.
Plus, timer, thermometer, alarm clock, and time.
To use it, just set the ISO of your camera/film onto the meter, press the M button, rotate the ring to the displayed Exposure Value, and viola, all possible combinations of exposures you can select from to use on your camera that a) doesn't have a light meter b) classic camera's light meter went bust years ago c) want an accurate exposure at subject (incident light metering) d) want to be able to view all possible combinations of exposure (aperture / shutter speeds) at once e) you have a consumer Digital SLR camera that doesn't allow you to meter in Manual (exposure) mode when using old manual lenses (for example, non-CPU Nikon lenses like non-AI, AI, AIS lenses).
The only drawbacks are twofold:
a) If your camera's has a built-in reflective light meter, your camera's light metering would be more useful if the light conditions keep changing. For example, if you're are out and about shooting pictures at the zoo, with clouds overheard, then the lighting conditions might change because the clouds might cover the sun, the sun reappears again, it's getting late in the evening, walk into shade, go inside buildings, etc. In all these cases, you must keep pressing the M button on your reflective light meter to adjust for the changing lighting conditions, which could get tiring.
In this regard, your camera's built-in light meter should be used.
b) If you use filters on your lenses, your light meter will not account for them.
If you have a digital camera that allows you to set exposure manually (set shutter speed and aperture), you probably don't need a light meter.
The reason why, is that you can always guess the exposure: set the aperture and shutter speed, take the picture, look at the LCD, if the picture came out too dark or too bright, then adjust shutter speed or aperture, take another picture, and repeat until you get the exposure you want. Also, you have some leeway to adjust exposure if you shoot RAW, and correct it later in software.
This is assuming that you can't use the built-in reflective light meter of your digital camera.
Getting the exposure correct is more critical when using film, because you have limited exposures on a roll of film.
All a light meter does is get you the exposure you need for the scene before you, faster.
In my case, I use the the light meter with the hot shoe accessory for use on my Olympus 35 SP rangefinder camera.
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| DIGISIX 2 | DIGIFLASH 2 | DIGIPRO F2 | DIGISKY | STARLITE 2 | SIXTOMAT F2 | |
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| Customer Reviews |
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| Price | — | — | $199.00 | $385.77 | — | — |
| Ambient light | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| Incident light metering method | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| Reflected light metering method | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| Aperture or shutter priority pre-selection | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
| Middle value generation | ✓ | ✓ | ||||
| Zone measurement | ✓ | |||||
| Flash (non-cord) | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | |
| Flash (non-cord – radio) | Elinchrom (Skyport and SKYPORTspeed) | |||||
| Ambient light ratio display | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ||
| Calculation of multiple flashes | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
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